2019年世界攀岩锦标赛速度决赛中国队失利分析及备战东京奥运会的对策

Analysis on Failure of Chinese Team in Speed Final of 2019 World Rock Climbing Championship and Countermeasures against Preparing for Tokyo Olympic Games

运用文献资料、录像分析、专家访谈等方法,对2019年世界攀岩锦标赛速度决赛中国队失利原因进行分析,并提出备战东京奥运会的对策.研究发现:失误过多、新起步技术动作未定型、后程攀爬实力不足、运动员压力过大是本次世锦赛速度决赛中国队失利的主要原因.针对中国攀岩队存在的问题,提出了提高攀爬稳定性、继续发挥前程攀爬优势、提升后程攀爬实力、重视运动员心理训练等对策,以期为中国攀岩队在东京奥运会上取得优异成绩提供参考.

By means of documentation,video analysis and expert interviews,the reasons have been analyzed in this paper for the Chinese team's failure in the speed final of the World Climbing Championship in 2019,and countermeasures been put forward for preparing for the Tokyo Olympic Games.It is believed that the main reasons for the Chinese team's failure in the speed final are more mistakes,inadequate strength of climbing in the back,and too much pressure on athletes.Some countermeasures have been given to improve the stability of climbing,continue to give full play to the advantages of future climbing,strengthen the strength of later climbing,and pay attention to the psychological training of athletes,so as to provide reference for the Chinese rock climbing team to perform better in the Tokyo Olympic Games.