明清挽袖考略——伦理教化下的服从与僭越

Wanxiu in Ming and Qing dynasties:obedience and transgression under ethical cultivation

挽袖是缝缀于女服衣袖的缘饰,其在明清时期的传承发展中先后被多个民族、不同阶级所使用,并逐渐礼化。文章诉诸跨学科史学法、比较史学法和定量研究法等分析后发现,挽袖前身为元明时期百姓起居时用的"素地宽褾",至明末"锦绣宽褾"成为妇行教化普及的载体,燕居女服舒挽共制格局形成。清初服制正统改弦更张,但民间女服被视为琐屑家事,只有谕令而不立典章。数代太平盛世后,"锦绣宽褾"被汉人商品化、礼服化,再度风靡社会。直至清代嘉庆的"秀女汉妆"事件,才引发朝堂震悚,随后道光帝在规劝旧俗回归同时,又于宫廷内悄然实行内廷命妇便服改制,将汉式缘袖与满女袍服杂糅,后于同治初年定名"挽袖",载入御制清档。清末,慈禧的照片外交又使得"挽袖"远扬欧美,再度成为封建伦理蚁溃的隐寓。明清挽袖在从俗浮沉中吸纳了各阶级艺术与各民族文化,终得封建伦理正视,其发展是中华服饰历尽朝代更迭仍一脉相承的又一历史实证。

Wanxiu originated from the Ming dynasty and flourished in the Qing dynasty.It is a kind of fringes sewn on sleeves of women’s wear,which has been used by many ethnic groups and different classes during its inheritance and development in the Ming and Qing dynasties,and gradually became a ritual.After analyzing using cross-disciplinary historical approach,comparative historical approach and quantitative research method,etc.this paper disccovered that Wanxiu was formerly"grey cloth sleeves with a wide cuff"used by civilians in their daily life in Yuan and Ming dynasties.At the end of Ming dynasty,"brocade sleeves with a wide cuff"became a carrier for fostering and popularizing female virtues.A pattern of female informal dress(燕居女服)and Shuxiu(stretched sleeves)/Wanxiu(rolled up sleeves)was formed.In the early Qing dynasty,the new imperial power changed the orthodox of the clothing system,but the folk women’s clothing was regarded as trivial and household.There was only edict but no specific regulations.After several generations of peace and prosperity,"brocade sleeves with a wide cuff"were commercialized and ritualized by the Han people,and once again swept the society.During the Reign of Jiaqing in the Qing dynasty,an incident that"the emperor’s harem wore a Han makeup"happened,and the court was greatly shocked.Later,while exhorting people to return to old customs,Emperor Daoguang secretly reformed women’s casual clothes in his palace and mixed the fringed sleeves of Han nationality with the female gown of Manchu.Later in the early reign of Tongzhi,it was named"Wanxiu"and recorded in Qing archives made by the emperor’s order.In the late Qing dynasty,Cixi’s photo diplomacy made"Wanxiu"gain fame in Europe and America and once again become a harbinger of the collapse of feudal ethics.In the rise and fall with the secular world,Ming and Qing Wanxiu assimilated the arts of various classes and the cultures of various ethnic groups and finally received due attention from the feudal ethics.Its development was another historical demonstration of the continuity of Chinese costumes through the changes of dynasties.