多元羧酸与指甲醌染料交联染棉的结构及性能

Structure and properties of crosslinking-dyed cotton with polycarboxylic acid and lawsone dye

为了提高天然染料对棉纤维的染色固色性能,以聚马来酸(PMA)和柠檬酸(CA)为交联剂应用于天然染料指甲醌对棉织物的交联染色。采用FTIR、XRD和SEM分析了染色前后棉织物的表面形态及结构,探讨了酯交联对棉织物性能的影响以及多元羧酸复配交联染色机理。结果表明,染色前后棉织物表面差别不大,各纤维间不粘连;直接染色后的棉纤维表面变化不明显,仅有少量染料附着,而交联染色后的棉纤维表面负载较多的染料导致其粗糙度增加,酯化反应主要发生在纤维的无定形区。与直接染色棉织物相比,交联染色棉织物的染色深度(K/S)和上染率分别提高了88%和165%;染品的绿光、黄光增加,颜色饱和度提高;摩擦色牢度提高了1~2级;耐洗色牢度提高了1~2级;交联染色后棉织物的折皱回复角(WRA)提高了约60%,紫外线防护系数(UPF)达到了50+,具有优异的抗紫外性能。

In order to improve the dyeing and fixing properties of natural dye on cotton fibers,the mixture of polymaleic acid(PMA)and citric acid(CA)was used as crosslinking agent for crosslinking dyeing on cotton with natural dye lawsone.The structure and surface morphology of cotton fabrics before and after dyeing were characterized by FTIR、SEM and XRD.The effect of ester crosslinking on the properties of cotton fabric and the crosslinking dyeing mechanism with polycarboxylic acid compound were discussed.The results showed that there was not much difference on the surface of the cotton fabric before and after dyeing,and no adhesion between the fibers.After direct dyeing,the surface of cotton fiber did not change significantly,and attached only a small amount of dyes.While after crosslinking dyeing,more dyes were loaded on the surface of cotton fiber,resulting in the roughness increasingly.Moreover,esterification mainly occurred in the amorphous region of the fiber.Compared with those of direct-dyed cotton fabric,the dyeing depth(K/S)and the dyeing rate of crosslinking-dyed cotton fabric were increased by 88%and 165%,respectively.The green light,yellow light and color saturation of the dyed product increased.The colour fastness to rubbing increased by about 1~2 levels,and the colour fastness to washing increased by about 1~2 levels.The wrinkle recovery angle(WRA)of crosslinking-dyed cotton fabric was enhanced by about 60%and had a UPF value of 50+,and exhibited excellent UV resistance.