全成形双层结构针织服装工艺模型研究与应用

Research and application of process modeling of single-piece double-layer knitted garments

为深入探讨全成形针织服装复杂款式结构,丰富全成形针织服装款式样板,研究了四针床全成形双层结构针织服装设计方法及编织工艺。在四针床全成形单层结构服装研究基础上,通过分析体型特征、人体运动松量和服装原型特征,设计出双层结构服装原型纸样。针对此纸样设计出一款典型双层结构上装,对其版型设计、工艺方法和成形原理进行分析。结果表明:从单层结构服装到双层结构服装转化过程中,里外层结构通过一体成形编织工艺形成款式造型;连接处模型有O型、X型、H型、XO型4种方式保持衣身平衡,以确保里外层连接处尺寸差的精确调整;细部模型通过集圈编织、局部编织形成;根据编织工艺参数及里外层服装在结构上的差异可得到适合人体曲线的全成形双层结构服装。

In order to explore deeply the complex style structure of single-piece knitted garments and to enrich the models of single-piece knitted garments,the design method and knitting process of four-needle bed single-piece double-layer knitted garments were studied.On the basis of the research of the four-needle bed single-piece single-layer clothing,the prototype pattern of the double-layer clothing structure is designed through analyzing the characteristics of the human body shape,the looseness of the human body and the characteristics of the clothing prototype.A typical double-layer structure upper garment was designed based on the paper pattern,and its layout design,process method and forming principle were analyzed.The results show that in the process of transforming from a single-layer garment to a double-layer garment,the inner and outer layers are formed through an integrated knitting process to form a style model;the connection model has four ways to maintain the body balance:O,X,H and XO,and to ensures the precise adjustment of the size difference between the inner and outer layers;and the detailed model is formed by tuck knitting and partial knitting.According to the knitting process parameters and the structural difference between the inner and outer layers of clothing,a single-piece double-layer clothing suitable for the body curve is created.