民国旗袍的“人衣空间”

The Person-cloth Space of Cheongsam in the Republic of China

与西方强调通过服装塑造人体造型有所不同的是,中国更注重服装与人从物理空间到心理空间的和谐统一。民国旗袍在延续了中国传统制衣智慧的前提下成功实现了传统向现代的演进,其“合体”的着装效果从技术到审美都完全区别于西式服装。民国旗袍借助于穿的行为来塑造服装与人的空间的方式,明显区别于西方服饰。同时,旗袍与人体“以实为虚”的物理空间表达方式也充分体现了中国传统服饰文化所追求的“不似而似之”的精神境界。

Different from the Western emphasis on shaping the human body through clothing,Chinese clothing pursues harmony between clothing and human,physically and psychologically.Carrying forward the wisdom of Chinese traditional clothing and meanwhile evolving from tradition to modernity,cheongsam of the Republic of China has its“fit”dress effect,which is totally different from that of western-style clothing in terms of techniques and aesthetics.The way the cheongsam shaped the person-cloth space with the help of the act of wearing it is obviously different from Western clothing.The person-cheongsam physical space expression of“feeling been tightly wrapped in”also represents Chinese traditional clothing culture􀆳s pursuit of“design in disguise”.