宋代朱克柔缂丝研究

Study on Zhu Kerou’s Silk in the Song Dynasty

中国缂丝工艺历史悠久、技艺精湛,是丝织品历史中不可忽视的重要组成部分。从唐代到清代,人们对丝织品的鉴赏,推崇程度与使用范围都有强烈的时代特点,其不同的民族性主导着缂丝图案和用途略有不同。到了宋代,政治经济和文化重心南迁,长江三角洲地区慢慢发展成最富裕的区域,缂丝工艺也从北方发展到南方的苏淞地区,并作为一种丝织与绘画融合的艺术得到了迅速发展,得到上流社会的推崇,产生了缂制书画的高档艺术品,出现了大量艺术水平极高的缂丝能手。然而缂丝书画多以名画为底稿,对丝织要求细腻繁琐,故缂丝以小梭细工慢缂.耗时长、工艺要求严谨,存世精品十分稀少。

China's silk reeling technology has a long history,comprehensively researching the historical literature to study the style combination of Zhu Kerou's silk works in the Song Dynasty and the economic and political features of its era.Judging from the social status of women and the mainstream consumers,they judge the characteristics of the times in which Zhu Kerou is in the silk.The author analyzes the artistic characteristics of Zhu Kerou's existing silk paintings one by one,combines the characteristics of Chinese meticulous paintings,compares the treatment of Zhu Kerou's details,and analyzes the reasons for the formation of his artistic style from the perspective of the development of woven techniques.The work of Zhu Kerou's silk works is determined by the social and historical conditions,and her painting foundation and woven techniques specifically determine the rigor of her silk works.