近代中国职业制服中的中山装形制与符号

The application of the style and symbol of Zhongshan suit in modern Chinese professional uniforms

在长袍马褂、西装、中山装都被大众接受且盛行的近代中国,中山装作为法定服装被运用到职业制服中。文章运用文献研究法梳理了近代中国中山装式制服的相关条例,对公务员制服与其他行业制服中关于中山装的规则与推广情况进行了分析,并从民族性、思想性、文化性与国货条款等方面对中山装在职业制服中的符号建构进行了研究。研究表明:中山装是近代中国职业制服的主要品种,并在作为职业制服的过程中完成了民族符号、思想符号、文化符号、国货符号的符号构建。中山装的推广是近代中国社会转型的着装需求,也是一个思想性与功能性兼备的鲜明的时代符号。

In modern China,long gowns,mandarin jackets and Zhongshan suits were all accepted by the public and prevailed,and Zhongshan suit was used in professional uniforms as legal clothing.Using the method of literature research,this paper combs relevant regulations on Zhongshan-style uniform in modern China,analyzes the rules and promotion of Zhongshan suit in civil servants’uniforms and uniforms in other industries,and studies the symbol construction of Zhongshan suit in professional uniforms from the aspects of nationality,ideology,culture and buy-national policies,etc.The conclusion is that Zhongshan suit is the main variety of modern Chinese professional uniforms,and when in the process of becoming a professional uniform,it has finished the symbol construction as national symbol,ideological symbol,cultural symbol and national product symbol.The popularization of Zhongshan suit is not only a wearing demand during the social transformation of modern China,but also a distinctive symbol of times with both ideological and functional features.