传统细锦提花织物数码化创新设计实践

The practice of digital innovative design of traditional ornamental brocade

通过分析传统细锦提花织物双经多纬的组织结构特征及色彩特征,明确因小花楼织机装造的局限,无法充分表现组织变化对细锦织纹色彩的影响。文章在数码化条件下,设计了纬三重单纬渐变组合遮盖结构组织库,用于开发"茶禅一味"系列数码提花织物,以模仿细锦的织纹及色彩效果,织物花部可表现单纬影光渐变且遮盖背衬纬的效果,同时,还验证了满足遮盖原则的条件下,组织库中原背衬层的增减不影响表纬遮盖相邻里纬。纬三重单纬渐变组合遮盖结构设计方法将数码化技术融合到传统细锦提花织物的品种特征与色彩特征中,为细锦及其他传统提花织物的当代开发提供新思路。

By analyzing the fabric weaves and color characteristics of traditional ornamental brocade with double warps and multiple wefts,this paper clarifies that due to the limitations of the configurations of lampas drawloom,it is impossible to fully display the impact of weave change on the texture and color of ornamental brocade.Based on digital textile technology,the authors designed a triple weft-backed structure weave database with single weft gradient and then adopted it to develop"Taste Zen in Tea"series digital jacquard fabrics,imitate the surface texture and color effects of ornamental brocade,and the pattern part of fabric presented an effect that single weft floats changed gradually and covered the underlying wefts.Meanwhile,it was confirmed that when the covering principle was satisfied,the addition and deletion of original underlying layers in the database wouldn’t prevent the surface weft from covering adjacent weft.In this paper,the design method of triple weft-backed structure with gradient single weft integrates digital textile technology into the variety and color characteristics of traditional ornamental brocade and provides novel ideas for contemporary development of ornamental brocades as well as other traditional jacquard fabrics.