纺织品类文物材质与染料分析方法

A review of analytical methods for the materials and dyes of textile cultural relics

“丝绸之路”的起点位于中国/东亚,中国在“丝路”的发展中占有重要的地位。古代纺织品文物种类繁多,常用的纺织品科学研究方法有色谱、光谱、质谱等。本研究基于目前纺织品文物的分析现状,从纤维、染料两个重要角度,系统地阐述目前已有的扫描电子显微镜、傅里叶红外光谱、光纤光谱等纺织纤维分析技术,以及薄层色谱、高效液相色谱、拉曼光谱、光纤光谱等纺织品染料分析方法。对于纺织纤维鉴别,扫描电镜、傅里叶红外等方法可靠性较高;对于纺织品染料分析,高效液相色谱的分析精度更受认可;而拉曼光谱、光纤光谱技术具有原位、无损的优势,在纺织品文物研究中也日益被重视。对这些方法的原理、特点及其在古代纺织品分析中的研究进展与发展潜力的归纳与综述,将为纺织品文物保护相关研究提供参考与科学支持。

The starting point of the Silk Road lies in China/East Asia,and China plays an important role in the development of the Silk Road.There are many kinds of ancient textile relics,and commonly-used research methods for the scientific analysis of textile include chromatography,spectrometry and mass spectrometry.Here,we systematically describe existing analytical technologies for textile fibers(e.g.,scanning electron microscopy(SEM),Fourier transform infrared(FTIR)and fiber optic spectrometry)as well as methods for textile dye analysis(e.g.,thin layer chromatography(TLC),high performance liquid chromatography(HPLC),Raman and fiber optic spectrometry).For textile fiber identification,SEM and FTIR methods are more reliable.For the analysis of textile dyes,the accuracy and sensitivity of the HPLC method is more recognized.Raman and optical fiber spectrometry have advantages of in-situ and non-destructive characteristics and have been paid more and more attention to the study of textile cultural relics.This paper summarizes the principles,characteristics,research progress and developmental potentials of these methods in the analysis of ancient textiles,and could provide references and scientific support for the research on the conservation of textile cultural relics.