PEG脂肪酸甘油酯的脱脂、赋脂性能研究

Study of degreasing and fatliquoring properties of PEG fatty acid glycerides

使用猪皮作为受试皮,采用Sebumeter法定量测定皮脂含量,以此为基础自主设计实验,建立了表面活性剂对皮肤表面脱脂、赋脂性能的测定体系。在该体系中,通过测试PEG-7月桂酸甘油酯水溶液对分别含3种化妆品常用油类(白油、橄榄油、二甲基硅油)皮肤表面的洗涤效果,结果表明皮脂减少率随其质量分数的增大先升高后降低;通过测试PEG-7月桂酸甘油酯水溶液对无脂质皮肤表面的洗涤效果,并使用电子显微镜观察皮肤表面,结果表明洗涤后皮脂含量随其质量分数的增大先增加后不变,且在皮肤表面形成了脂质膜;通过测试月桂酸钠/PEG-7月桂酸甘油酯复配体系水溶液对含橄榄油皮肤表面的洗涤效果,结果表明皮脂减少率随PEG-7月桂酸甘油酯添加量的增大先降低后不变。上述实验证明了PEG脂肪酸甘油酯具有良好的脱脂性能和赋脂性能,其应用于相关产品中能温和清洁,与皂基复配能产生赋脂作用,从而改善皂基洗后皮肤的干涩、紧绷感,因此在卸妆产品和皂基型洗护产品中具有广阔的应用前景。

The measurement system for the skin-surface degreasing and fatliquoring properties of surfactants was established by independently designing experiments based on Sebumeter method using pigskin as the subject skin for quantificationally measuring sebum content.In this system,the washing effects of aqueous solutions of PEG-7 lauric acid glycerides on the skin surfaces containing three oils that were commonly used in cosmetics(white oil,olive oil and simethicone,respectively)were tested,the results of which showed that the sebum decrease rate is increased first and then decreased with the increase of mass fraction.The washing effects of aqueous solutions of PEG-7 lauric acid glycerides on the skin surfaces without lipid were tested,and the skin surfaces were observed by electron microscopy.The results showed that the sebum content after washing is increased first and then remained constant with the increase of mass fraction,and a lipid film was formed on the skin surfaces.The washing effects of the aqueous mixture of sodium laurate/PEG-7 lauric acid glycerides on the skin surfaces containing olive oil were tested,the results of which showed that the sebum decrease rate is decreased first and then remained constant with the increase of amount of PEG-7 lauric acid glycerides.The experiments above proved that PEG fatty acid glycerides possessed good degreasing and fatliquoring properties.They could clean mildly when applied to related products and achieve a fatliquoring effect when compounded with soap base to improve the dry and tight feelings of skin after washing by soap base.Therefore,they had broad application prospect in makeup remover products and soap-based washing products.