意大利的时尚与时尚的意大利——评《意大利时尚简史》

Fashion in Italy and the Italy of fashion:comment on Breve storia della moda in Italia

作为一种基于持续模仿和不断创新的复杂的社会现象,时尚跨越了地域、时空和学科的界限。它如棱镜一般,多维度呈现了作为其土壤的社会,亦传递出社会对于世界的看法。《意大利时尚简史》致力于在这一跨学科研究领域走出一条富有意大利特色的路径:改变人们对于时尚的刻板印象,就这一貌似随性、瞬息万变的现象展开浓缩式的阐释,一方面追溯作为“表相”的时尚在意大利的源起、发展和演变历程;另一方面探寻作为“本相”的意大利社会的思想观念、政治主张和审美品味的变迁,描绘出一幅鲜活、动态的“时尚的意大利”图景。

As a complex social phenomenon based on continuous imitation and innovation,fashion crosses the boundaries of geography,time and space,and disciplines.Like a prism,it presents all aspects of the society as its soil and reflects back the society’s view towards the world.In order to change people’s stereotypes about fashion,Breve storia della moda in Italia committs to an Italian path in this interdisciplinary research field:with a condensed interpretation of fashion,an apparently spontaneous and changeable phenomenon,the book shows a vivid and dynamic portrait about the Italy of fashion by tracing,on one hand,the origin,development and evolution of fashion in Italy as an appearance,on the other hand,exploring the changes in ideologies,political values and aesthetics of Italian society as an essence.