基于影视剧《长安十二时辰》管窥盛唐男装

Restricted View of Men's Clothing in the Tang Dynasty Based on"the Longest Day in Chang’an"

《长安十二时辰》是一部唐代背景古装剧,其男装服饰设计基于历史,可为戏服研究所借鉴。文章基于《长安十二时辰》影视、小说及相关文史资料,运用图像学原理,对该剧的影视男装进行探析。研究认为:《长安十二时辰》中的男装设计可圈可点,无论是款式、色彩还是图案甚至服饰搭配都较为严格遵循唐代服饰制度,整体上符合唐代服饰特点;《长安十二时辰》中的部分服饰细节上仍有错误,如李必冠帽的使用上,但瑕不掩瑜;《长安十二时辰》中胡服的设计和使用在颜色和图案乃至穿用人群上都较为灵活,表现了唐代文化的兼容并蓄。

"The Longest Day Hours in Chang'an"is an ancient costume drama set in the Tang Dynasty.Its men's clothing design are based on history and can be used as a reference for costume research.This paper is based on"The Longest Day Hours in Chang'an"film and television drama,novels and related literature and historical data,using the principle of iconology to analyze the men's clothing of the film and television drama.The study holds that:①The men's clothing design in"Chang'an Twelve Hours"is remarkable,regardless of the style,color,pattern and even clothing collocation,they strictly follow the clothing system of the Tang Dynasty,which is in line with the characteristics of the clothing of the Tang Dynasty as a whole;②There are still some errors in the details of the clothing in"Two Hours",such as the use of Li Bi’s head dressings,but the defects can not obscure the virtues;③The design and use of hu costume in"The Longest Day Hours in Chang'an"are more flexible in colors and patterns,and even the people who wear them.It shows the inclusiveness of Tang Dynasty culture.