摘要
为了提高产品附加值、降低生产成本,在小样织机上开发长江大桥花纹室内装饰织物,在组织设计、配色设计、机织与手绘相结合等方面进行了创新。通过在经起花花经浮长线上设置大量错落的接结点,形成桥塔、悬索及其倒影;纬纱采用深蓝、中蓝、浅蓝3种渐变蓝色交替渐变排列,刻画长江江面波光粼粼的效果;织造时控制好桥塔横梁部分的花经、左右塔柱和左右悬索的花经及地经3部分经纱的上机张力,通过江面、桥面及江天一色三区段引纬,保证纬纱次序的准确性;手绘时掌握好主缆线条的位置和桥面的宽度。经过设计与实践,开发出了长江大桥花纹室内装饰织物,地布细腻,花型立体感强,画面栩栩如生,对在小提花织机上开发大花纹织物具有借鉴意义。
In order to improve the added value of products and reduce production costs,an interior decorative fabric with Yangtze River Bridge pattern was developed on sample loom.The innovation was carried out in three aspects,such as fabric weaves design,color matching design,combination of weaving and hand-drawing.The bridge tower,suspension cables and their reflections were formed by setting many interlacing points on the floating of pattern warps.The weft yarns were arranged in dark blue,medium blue and light blue with gradual changes alternately,which depicted the sparkling water the surface of the Yangtze River.During the process of weaving,to ensure the accuracy of the filling order,the tension of the bridge tower beam of the warp,the left and right tower column and hanging cable warp and ground warp was controlled well,and the weft insertion was carried out in three sections namely the surface of the river,the deck of the bridge and the river melted into the sky.Master the position of the main cable and the width of the deck while hand-drawing.After the design and practice,the interior decoration fabric of the Yangtze River Bridge is developed,with fine ground cloth,strong three-dimensional pattern and vivid picture,which is of reference significance for the development of large pattern fabric on small jacquard loom.
作者
隋全侠
SUI Quanxia(Textiles and Fashion,Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Nantong,Jiangsu 226007,China)
出处
《毛纺科技》
CAS
北大核心
2021年第5期20-23,共4页
Wool Textile Journal
基金
江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心[苏政办2014(22)号]。
关键词
装饰织物
组织设计
上机张力
手绘
decorative fabric
fabric weave design
loom tension
hand-drawing