《工艺,工业和日常生活:盎格鲁-斯堪的纳维亚和中世纪约克郡的皮革与制皮》中的纺织服饰编译(三)

Compilation of Textile and Clothing in Craft,Industry and Everyday Life:Leather and Leather Working in Anglo-Scandinavia and Medieval York(Ⅲ)

[研究内容]文章选取《工艺,工业和日常生活:盎格鲁-斯堪的纳维亚和中世纪约克郡的皮革与制皮》之中,“日常生活”章节里关于鞋子结构类型与鞋底类型的部分进行译注,[研究结果与结论]通过翻译研究该部分内容发现:绝大多数被复原的鞋子都是“回翻”结构,其缝纫方式可以分为“类型1”“类型2”“类型2a”和“类型3”;极少数的“回翻沿条”结构的缝纫方式为“类型4”;“沿条”结构的缝纫方式多以“类型5”呈现,但是保存下来的都不够完整。鞋底根据鞋头、鞋腰、鞋跟底座的款式可以确定为五种主要类型,即“a型”“b型”“c型”“d型”“e型”。[研究意义]文章对被复原鞋子部件的数量、年代款式、类型等记录进行详细翻译,并对缝纫针法与涉及到的鞋子款式进行注释,这些内容会为未来探索古代鞋类制作方法等学术研究开阔视野,提供参考。

This article selects the part of Craft,Industry and Everyday Life:Leather and Leather Working in Anglo-Scandinavia and Medieval York in the chapter of"Everyday life"about the structure type and sole type of shoes for translation.Most of the re⁃stored shoes are of Turnshoe construction,and their sewing methods can be divided into"type 1","type 2","type 2A"and"type 3",A few of the sewing methods of turn-welted construction structure are"type 4";Most of the stitching methods of welted con⁃struction are presented as"type 5",but none of them is complete.According to the style of toe cap,shoe waist and heel base,the sole can be divided into five main types,namely"type A","type B","type C","type D"and"type E".This article makes a de⁃tailed translation of the records of the number,age,style and type of the recovered shoe parts,and makes notes on the sewing needle method and the shoe style involved.These contents will broaden the vision and provide reference for the future academic research on the ancient shoe making methods.