珊瑚岛礁海岸多尺度波流运动特性研究新进展

Recent research advances on multi-scale coastal wave and current characteristics of coral reefs and islands

珊瑚岛礁海岸波流动力复杂、地貌形态特殊、工程响应未知,波浪传播变形和波生环流对建筑物安全、地形地貌演变、防灾减灾和生态环境保护都有重要影响。本文从大范围大洋海脊导波与岛礁波浪俘获、中等尺度的礁坪-潟湖-裂口系统波流特性、建筑物前沿的局部波流特性及工程响应等三种不同空间尺度上综述了波流运动特性研究的新进展,主要包括深水大范围的海脊波浪引导与岛礁波浪俘获的理论解析、礁坪-潟湖-裂口系统整体物理模型实验、基于大水槽实验的建筑物影响下波流演化过程及越浪量和波浪力计算方法,并提出亟需深入研究的重点内容。

The coasts of coral reefs and islands are characterized with very complex wavecurrent dynamics,unique morphology and largely unknown engineering responses,where wave transformation and waveinduced currents have significant impacts on the infrastructure safety,morphological evolution,disaster prevention,and ecoenvironmental protection.Recent research advances on these topics are reviewed with respect to three spatial scales,e.g.,the largescale longwave guiding and trapping,the mediumscale hydrodynamics in a reeflagoonchannel system,and the local wavestructure interaction.This paper includes the descriptions of,specifically,theoretical findings of guided and trapped waves over ocean ridges and around reef islands,twodimensional horizontal wave basin experiment of a reeflagoonchannel system,and new methods to estimate wave overtopping and forces on the seawall based on a largescale wave flume experiment.Further research prospects are also suggested.