基于虚拟仿真技术的清代“旗袍”功能转型及形制复原

Research on Function Transformation and Form Restoration of"Qipao"in the Qing Dynasty Based on Virtual Simulation Technology

作为清朝满族女子最具代表性的民族服装,满族女子"旗袍"所突出强调的领、襟、袖、开衩等部位的造型特点,是区别于民国时期"S"型旗袍女装廓形的重要构成元素。为探究清朝"旗袍"的形制转型原理,本文选取清宫旧藏、中国丝绸博物馆以及故宫博物馆等馆藏资料,对"旗袍"的形制变迁进行梳理,并结合虚拟仿真技术对清朝不同时期满族女子"旗袍"的3种形制袷袍、氅衣和衬衣进行复原,总结出其形制构成规律和数字化复原方法。

As the most representative national costume of Manchu women in the Qing Dynasty,the modeling features of the collar,lapel,sleeves,slits and other parts highlighted by the"Qipao"worn by Manchu women are important components different from the women’s silhouette of"S"type of"Qipao"in the Republic of China.In order to explore the principle of the form transformation of the"Qipao"in the Qing Dynasty,this article selects materials from the collections of the Old Collection of the Qing Dynasty Palace,the Chinese Silk Museum and the Palace Museum to sort out the changes in the shape of the"Qipao",and with virtual simulation technology to restore the shape of the three forms(robes,cloaks and shirts)of the Manchu women’s"Qipao"in different periods of the Qing Dynasty,and summed up its form and composition law and digital restoration method.