宫廷审美视域下南京云锦的符号学探析与丝巾图案设计

A semiotic analysis and scarf pattern design of Nanjing brocade from the perspective of royal aesthetics

南京云锦作为中国最传统的丝织工艺品之一,自元朝起成为皇家御用品后,南京云锦所蕴含的宫廷文化的审美价值和内涵一直受到社会各界的广泛关注,也是充满着符号意义的世界非物质文化遗产。文章通过在南京云锦博物馆进行实地考察,以符号学理论作为研究方法,将南京云锦的工艺、纹饰、色彩三种符号元素进行整理,运用莫里斯符号学三分法分别从语形学、语用学、语义学三方面分析南京云锦,进而总结其宫廷文化内涵和审美价值的符号表现。研究认为,南京云锦中的宫廷审美内涵价值体现在其穷奢极侈的材料的运用,皇室象征的龙纹图案造型及皇室专用的明黄色彩,凸显出南京云锦作为皇室御用品的专属尊贵,并创新设计出一款南京云锦宫廷审美文化衍生的主题图案丝巾。

Nanjing brocade,as one of the most traditional silk woven handicrafts in China,has become a royal imperial article since the Yuan dynasty.The aesthetic value and connotation of the palace culture contained in Nanjing Brocade has been widely concerned by all walks of life,and it is also a world intangible cultural heritage with symbolic meaning.Through a field visit to Nanjing brocade museum,this article uses semiotic theory as a research method to arrange three symbolic elements including the craftsmanship,pattern and color of Nanjing brocade,and uses Morris’semiotics to analyze Nanjing brocade from three aspects:morphology,pragmatics,and semantics,to summarize the symbolic expressions of its connotation and aesthetic value of palace culture.The study believes that the connotation and aesthetic value of palace culture in Nanjing brocade are reflected in its the extravagant use of materials,the dragon pattern that symbolizes the imperial family and the unique bright yellow for the imperial family,which highlights the exclusiveness and dignity of Nanjing brocade as an imperial family royal supply.Also,a new silk scarf with a theme derived from the royal aesthetic culture of Nanjing brocade is designed.