中华传统造物思想视域下的戏曲服饰“十”字型结构研究

Study on the cross structure of opera costume from the perspective of traditional creation thought

目前,对于戏曲服饰大多是从图案纹样、色彩、材质等方面进行研究,缺乏深入且系统的服饰结构研究。中国传统服饰的裁剪方式多以平面呈现,在“敬物尚检”传统造物思想的指导下,“十”字型的平面结构也是中国一贯沿用的基本服饰结构。明代是“十”字型平面服饰结构最具典型的朝代,而戏曲服饰则以明代服饰为依据。因此,文章尝试分析明代服饰与戏曲服饰内在的共性,探讨戏曲服饰“十”字型结构及其背后的哲学思想。

At present,the research on opera costumes is mostly from the pattern,color and material,lack of in-depth and systematic research on costume structure.Chinese traditional costume tailoring is mostly presented by plane.Under the guidance of the traditional creation thought of“respecting things and examining things”,the plane structure of the cross is also the basic costume structure that has always been used in the history of China.The Ming Dynasty is the most typical one with the structure of cross plane costume,and the costume of opera is based on the Ming Dynasty costume.This paper attempts to analyze the inherent commonality between Ming Dynasty costume and opera costume,and to explore the cross structure of opera costume and the philosophical thought behind it.