青岛近岸海域波浪要素特征研究

Statistical Analysis of Wave Characteristics in Coastal Waters of Qingdao

本文基于小麦岛海洋环境监测站2014年波浪骑士浮标观测数据以及风速、风向观测数据,对青岛近岸海域波浪要素特征进行了综合分析。整体来看,波浪骑士观测数据质量较高,观测海域以2至3级波高为主,年平均最大波高和平均波周期分别为0.89 m和4.4 s,平均波向主要分布在90°~270°的偏南向范围内,常浪向和强浪向均为东南向(SE)。波高变化与风速较为一致,春、夏季大浪过程较多,以东南向浪为主。通过有效波陡数据分析,得出观测海域以风浪、未成熟涌浪占主。本文利用长期、连续、高精度的波浪方向谱数据,对青岛市近岸海域波浪特征进行分析,对于青岛市近海的海浪预警监测、防灾减灾、海洋工程建设、海上运输等具有重要的参考价值。

Based on the wave data collected by Directional Waverider buoy and wind speed and direction data collected by the ocean station of Xiaomai Island in 2014,wave characteristics in coastal waters of Qingdao was studied.The observation data of Waverider buoy had high quality,wave scale was mainly 2-3 grade in observation area,The annual mean maximum wave height and mean wave period was respectively 0.89 m and 4.4 s.The wave direction mainly distributed in the south semicircle(90°-270°),and the direction of highest frequency wave and maximum height wave was both SE.The wave height varied with the wind speed,Higher waves was mainly occurred in spring and summer which was from SE direction.According to the analysis of significant steepness,wind waves and immature swells were dominated in the observation area.The innovative research based on the long-term,continuous and high-precision wave directional spectra data is important for wave observation,marine hazard mitigation,marine engineering and shipping business in the coastal area of Qingdao.