“欧洲—南亚”烹饪接触地带以及跨文化南亚泡菜(16至17世纪)

European-South Asian culinary contact zones and the transculturation of pickles(16^(th)/17^(th)c.)

以南亚最早的腌渍食品是如何被引入欧洲的问题引发讨论,首先追溯了葡萄牙、荷兰和英国在各大洲之间的南亚泡菜贸易,其次研究了南亚泡菜在当地的欧洲殖民据点的烹饪接触地带是如何转变以适应欧洲口味的,以及随后南亚泡菜如何在这些接触地带之外的不列颠群岛进一步欧洲化过程。可知,在现代早期,烹饪接触地带有效地形塑了南亚和欧洲之间的饮食文化交流。具有适应力的南亚泡菜已成为一种兼有南亚和欧洲烹饪元素的跨文化食品,并逐渐脱离了南亚烹饪从业者的影响。研究提供了对烹饪接触地带的离/合作用在烹饪文化嫁接过程中的角色的初步理解。

This article investigates how culinary contact zones shaped the transculturation of food between South Asia and Europe during the early modern period.It discusses the case of achar or South Asian pickles,the earliest prepared South Asian food introduced to Europe in the 16th century,which has been adapted to European tastes since.In the first part,the article traces the Portuguese,Dutch,and English trade with achar between the continents.The second part investigates how achar has been adapted to European tastes within the culinary contact zones of European settlements in South Asia and how it has been subsequently Europeanized in the British Isles outside of these contact zones.The article concludes that the adapted styles of achar have been transcultural foods with elements of South Asian and European cookery,which were gradually disentangled from the influence of South Asian culinary practitioners.