试论中国古代冠蝉的演变

On the Evolution of Coronet Ornament in the Shape of Cicada in Ancient China

蝉饰伴随着中国古代传统礼制的发展,由最初的自然崇拜、美化装饰逐渐演化为思想文化范畴,被古人赋予了诸多合乎儒家修身用世规范的深刻寓意,并作为身份等级的重要标识运用于冠服之中,为我国历代统治者所重视。随着近些年文物考古事业的蓬勃发展,各种有关"蝉"的文物陆续出现,拓展了冠蝉的研究空间。"冠上附蝉"这一制度始于战国时期赵武灵王仿效胡服加貂蝉之饰,历经数代一直延续至明代末期。蝉的使用形式最初为冠上金珰附蝉,至宋明时期开始出现进贤冠加笼巾附蝉的形式,其质地、外观式样和使用对象也不断变化,体现出不同历史时期统治者的政治理念。清代冠服制度与前代相比有很大的改变,传承了近两千年的冠蝉制度被顶戴花翎所替代,冠蝉制度随之消亡。

With the transformation of traditional etiquette of ancient China,the connotation of cicada-shaped ornament gradually evolved from nature worship and aesthetical decoration to ideological and cultural symbol of ethics advocated by Confucianism.The ornament itself also showed the status of wearer and thus was valued by the rulers of ancient dynasties.With rapid development of archaeology and undertakings regarding cultural relics,the number of cultural relics related to cicada keeps growing,which facilitates the research of cicada-shaped coronet ornament.The appearance of this ornament dates back to the Warring States Period when King Wuling of Zhao followed the example of the nomadic costume with ornaments in the shape of cicada and marten tail.At first,cicada design appeared on the gold block hanging on the sides of the coronet.Later,the decoration style changed.Cicada ornaments were put on the black yarn of the Jinxian coronet in the Song and Ming Dynasties.The texture and design of cicada,as well as the ranks of officials who were allowed to use the cicada decoration,varied in response to different political philosophies of the rulers in different historical periods.However,the change of costume system and the official use of peacock feather and gem ornamented coronets in the Qing Dynasty led to the abolition of the coronet etiquette of cicada-shaped ornament with a history of 2000 years.