以鼠李糖脂制备微乳液及在化妆品中的应用

Preparation of Rhamnolipids Microemulsion and its Application in Cosmetics

为了开发微生物表面活性剂鼠李糖脂面向化妆品应用的微乳液,通过鼠李糖脂-角鲨烷-甘油-水微乳体系的伪三元相图绘制和理化性质的测定得到优化后的微乳液基底。在此基础上研究微乳精华护肤品,通过理化性质测定、稳定性分析、主观评估和功效评价,最终得出鼠李糖脂微乳精华的最佳配方。结果表明:制备的鼠李糖脂微乳液澄清透明,为O/W型微乳液,粒径可接近44 nm,Zeta电位约为-31 mV。鼠李糖脂微乳精华稳定性良好,且能明显提升皮肤中的水分值,改善皮肤弹性。研究结果表明鼠李糖脂适合用于制备化妆品用微乳液载体。

This paper aims to develop the microemulsion preparing with microbial surfactant rhamnolipids for cosmetic applications.The optimized microemulsion formula base was obtained by drawing the pseudo three-phase diagram of the rhamnolipids-squalane-glycerol-water microemulsion system and measuring the physical and chemical properties.On this basis,through the determination of physical and chemical properties,stability analysis,subjective evaluation and efficacy evaluation,the rhamnolipids microemulsion with the best formula of microemulsion essence were obtained.Results showed that the obtained O/W microemulsion was clear,transparent.The particle size of the microemulsion was about 44 nm,and the Zeta potential was about-31 mV.Rhamnolipid microemulsion essence had good stability and could significantly increase the moisture value of the skin and improve skin elasticity.This result showed that rhamnolipids were suitable for preparing microemulsion carriers for cosmetics.