运动鞋工业制版取跷技术难点分析

Analysis of spring technology nodus in sneakers’pattern making

运动鞋帮面部件具有艺术造型丰富、廓形多变的特点,在工业制版过程中如何对其进行有效的版型伏楦性结构设计一直是鞋类行业版型技术开发人员所面对的共性技术难题.本研究主要从运动鞋半面版(折中版)、部件样版(母版、帮面样版、里样版、补强样版和鞋舌样版)、装饰工艺样版和底样版中主要有跷度部件的结构设计与跷度转换技术方法入手进行归类分析,深入系统地以图文并茂的形式剖析并总结出各类典型有跷度版型的制取方法.力求为学术科研、行业制版效率和从业人员的技术水平提高提供一定的技术参考.

There are so many characteristics of rich artistic modeling and changeable outline on sneakers’ upper. In the process of industrial pattern making, how to make the pattern bed to the last is a common technical problems for all footwear pattern engineers. In this study, the structural design and technical methods of typical selectional pattern’s spring technology in the half-vamp pattern after last spreading, selectional pattern(whole inner and outer malleolus pattern, upper parts pattern, lining pattern, backer pattern and tongue pattern), trim ornaments pattern and the last bottom pattern of sneakers were classified and analyzed. All kinds of typical pattern making methods were systematic analyzed and summarized in the form of pictures and text. It is aimed to provide some technical references for academic research, industry pattern making efficiency and technical level of employees.