非表征视角下的汉服文化意义建构

The Construction of Cultural Meaning of Hanfu from Non-representational Perspective

汉服及汉服运动作为当今我国一个重要的新兴服饰文化现象,针对汉服在文化认同中面临分歧与共识缺失的问题,基于文化地理学的非表征理论,采用了参与式观察、半结构访谈等方法对汉服着装者进行调查,探究了汉服在日常实践中的文化意义建构,以图挖掘发掘并传递出更加认同性与普适性的文化意义。研究结果表明,基于着装的感知、行动和情感维度,服饰的日常着装围绕功能适用、行为规训,以及情感寄托建构出非表征文化。因此,建议通过关注服饰在日常生活实践的非表征文化,挖掘服饰文化与空间中的身体、环境交互的巨大潜力。

As an important emerging clothing phenomenon in China,Hanfu and Hanfu movement,are facing the problems of divergence and lack of consensus in the cultural identity.Based on the non-representation theory(NRT)in cultural geography,this paper uses participatory observation,semi-structured interview and other methods to investigate the wearers of Hanfu,and explores the construction of cultural meanings of Hanfu in their daily practices,in order to find and deliver the cultural meanings which has more value of identity and universality.The results show that,based on the perceptional,actional and affectional dimensions of clothing,the daily clothing constructs a non-representational culture through functional applicability,behavior discipline and affectional sustenance.Therefore,it is suggested to pay attention to the non-representational culture of clothing in daily life,and tap the great potential of interaction between clothing culture and body and environment.