近代马面裙的形制及工艺探析

The Shape and Technology of Modern Horse-face Apron

[研究意义]马面裙在宋代初见雏形,风行于明代,到了清末民初成为近代汉族民间服饰中具有标志意义的传统裙装。[研究方法]文章以北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆收藏的两条近代马面裙为研究对象,结合大量文献资料,梳理近代马面裙的形制分类,结合实例从制作工艺和装饰工艺两方面剖析近代马面裙中的襕干裙和百褶裙的工艺特征。[研究结果与结论]研究表明,近代马面裙产生了襕干裙、百褶裙两种基本形制。三种同出一源的不同形式的裙装在面料选用、制作工艺、装饰手法上也不尽相同,其特点丰富了传统马面裙的艺术特征和时代特色,体现了劳动人民的的设计智慧,其所具有的美用一体的艺术价值对当代设计具有参考意义。

Horse-face Apron took shape in the Song Dynasty and became popular in the Ming Dynasty.By the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China,it became a traditional dress with symbolic significance in modern Han folk dress.This paper takes two modern horse-face aprons collected by the National Costume Museum of Beijing Institute of fashion as the research object,combing the shape classification of modern horse-face aprons with a large number of documents,and combining with examples,analyzes the process characteristics of the dry skirt and pleated skirt in modern horse-face aprons from the aspects of production technology and decoration technology.Research shows that there are two basic shapes of modern horse-face aprons:Langan skirt and pleated skirt.Three different forms of skirt from the same source are not the same in fabric selection,production technology and decoration techniques.Their characteristics enrich the artistic characteristics and era characteristics of traditional horse-face apron and reflect the design wisdom of the working people.The artistic value of the integration of beauty and application has reference significance for contemporary design.