摘要
乌纱帽来源于隋唐时期流行的幞头,经过不断变形在明代定型成为官员的常服帽式,与皇帝所戴的翼善冠造型相似,通过帽翅位置的不同加以区别。乌纱帽在明代的使用过程中,其内部结构基本不变,外部造型随着社会审美的变化而不断演变,这种变化在一定程度上为明朝服饰断代提供了佐证。同时,为了应对不同场合的需要,乌纱帽被附加了裘皮、簪花、展脚、垂带等多种实用或装饰性元素。由于乌纱帽在官员群体中的普适性使其逐渐成为象征符号,因时间及空间的差异而具有了各种特定含义。
Wusha hat originated from Futou,which is popular in the Sui and Tang Dynasties.After continuous transformation,it became the official uniform hat style in the Ming Dynasty.It is similar to the Yishan crown worn by the emperor but the position of the hat’s decorative wings is different.The internal structure of the wusha hat was basically unchanged during its use in the Ming Dynasty,but the external shape continued to evolve with the change of social aesthetics.This change provided evidence for the dating of Ming Dynasty clothing to a certain extent.In order to meet the needs of different occasions,Wusha hats have been added with various practical or decorative elements such as fur,hairpins,feet,and straps.The universality of wusha hat among officials has made it gradually become a symbolic sign,which has various specific meanings due to differences in time and space.
作者
牛犁
张倩倩
Niu Li;Zhang Qianqian
出处
《艺术设计研究》
CSSCI
2021年第3期45-52,共8页
Art & Design Research
基金
国家社科基金艺术学青年项目:大运河江南流域明代服饰的艺术考古研究(20CG183)的阶段性成果。
关键词
乌纱帽
官帽
明代首服
象征符号
Wusha hat
officer hat
headwear of the Ming Dynasty
symbolic sign
