近代上海与天津国货西服业之比较研究

Comparative study on the domestic suit industry between modern Shanghai and Tianjin

上海和天津是近代中国南北两大服装产销基地,且作为通商口岸城市最先受到西方文化的影响,两地的国货西服业发端较早、规模较大,行业的发展趋势和原因具有相似性和差异性,但目前少有研究系统地将两地的国货西服业进行比较。文章基于上海市档案馆和天津市档案馆馆藏的近代档案、近代地方志等史料,结合比较史学、统计学、数值分析的相关理论,比较两地的国货西服业在起步时间、规模大小和发展速度等方面的异同,探究近代西服业在不同城市的发展契机,以及西服业的繁荣与城市结构、商业发展的关联。结果表明:近代上海国货西服业的发端时间虽晚于天津,但行业组织的成立时间早于天津;在起步阶段上海西服店的数量少于天津,但至20世纪30年代后上海西服业的规模远大于天津,且近代上海西服店数量的增长速率始终大于天津。这与上海在近代中国的时尚中心地位、两地人口总量的差异及战争等因素相关。同时相似的城市类型、工商业的繁荣和行业组织的形成共同促进了近代上海与天津两地国货西服业的发展。

Shanghai and Tianjin are the two major garment production and marketing bases in the north and south of China in modern times.They are also the trade port cities first influenced by western culture.The domestic suit industry in the two places started early and was large in scale.There were similarities and differences in the development trends and reasons of the suit industry in the two places,but there have been few studies that systematically compare them.Based on historical materials such as modern archives collected in Shanghai Archives and Tianjin Archives,and modern local chronicles,the authors combined the relevant theories of comparative history,statistics,and numerical analysis to compare the similarities and differences in the starting time,scale and development speed of the domestic suit industry in the two places,and explore the development opportunities of the modern suit industries in different cities,and the relationship between the prosperity of the suit industry,the urban structure and commercial development.The results show that:the starting time of the modern Shanghai suit industry was later than that of Tianjin,but the establishment time of the industry organization was earlier than that of Tianjin.The number of suit stores in Shanghai was smaller than that in Tianjin in the initial stage,but after the 1930 s,the scale of Shanghai suit industry was much larger than that of Tianjin.Besides,the growth rate of suit stores in Shanghai was always faster than that in Tianjin.This is closely related to Shanghai’s status as a fashion center in modern China,the difference in total urban population and the war factors.Meanwhile,the similar urban type,the prosperity of industry and commerce and the formation of trade organizations jointly promoted the development of the domestic suit industry in modern Shanghai and Tianjin.