明代巾帽发展与变化研究——以士人阶层为例

Development and change of scarf cap in Ming Dynasty:taking the scholar class as an example

明代是我国封建专制社会最后一个由汉人统治的时代,在建朝之初就确立了"垂衣裳而天下治"的礼制。明代前期实行"衣冠之治",士人阶层依律例穿衣,巾帽风格单一。明代中后期,在服饰制度之下多有僭越,士人之间复古之风盛行,巾帽形制多样,体现出明显的阶级属性。文章研究士人阶层所戴巾帽,探究在明代"衣冠之治"背景下,士人所戴的巾帽在整个明代服饰史上的发展与演变,窥探明代前后不同的服饰文化与服饰制度下反映的社会发展变化。

Ming Dynasty was the last era of the feudal autocratic society,which was ruled by the Chinese.At the beginning of the construction,social institutions,set of etiquette“hanging clothes and governing the world”was established.In the early Ming Dynasty,the“rule of dress”was implemented,the scholar class dressed according to the law,and the style of scarf cap was single.In the middle and late Ming Dynasty,there were many arrogated under the dress system,the style of retro prevailed among scholars,and the scarf cap system was various,showing obvious class attributes.This paper studies the scarf cap worn by the scholars,and explores the development and evolution of the history of the scholars under the background of“rule of dress”in the Ming Dynasty,so as to explore the social development and changes reflected in different dress culture and dress systems around the Ming Dynasty.