基于CAD纸样技术的横编针织西装设计与实现

Design and realization of flat knitted suit based on CAD pattern technology

为更好地提高横编针织毛衫样板的合理性和高效性,针对横编针织编织方法难以制作结构复杂西装的问题,提出了服装CAD纸样技术可应用在横编针织西装的编织工艺设计上。选取收腰型女西装作为研究个案,详细地介绍服装CAD纸样技术在该款女西装的前后衣身、袖身和领部进行平面纸样结构转换的应用方法和过程,分析纸样结构图导入SKT针织智能下数软件后进行编织工艺图设计和电脑横机编织程序设计,最后上机编织女西装成品。结果表明:根据纸样结构图编制的女西装编织工艺符合毛衫加工工艺要求,其版型具有合体性和美观性,且该方法具有可操作性和高效性,能精准地调整成形衣片的编织工艺数据,可为非常规款针织毛衫的开发提供可参考的实践应用价值,具有理论指导意义。

In order to better improve the rationality and efficiency of the flat knitted sweater model,and to solve the problem that the flat knitting method is difficult to produce the complex structure of the suit,the garment CAD pattern technology was proposed to apply to the knitting process design of the flat knitted suit.The body-shaped female suit was selected as a research case,the application method and process of transforming the pattern structure of the front and back garment,sleeve and collar of the female suit was introduced in detail with CAD pattern technology,the design of the pattern structure drawing and the knitting program design of the computer flat knitting machine was analyzed after importing the SKT knitting intelligent software,and the finished female suit was finally knitted on the machine.The results show that the knitting process of women′s suits prepared according to the paper pattern structure diagram meets the requirements of sweater processing technology,and the pattern is fit and beautiful,and the method is operability with high efficiency,and the knitting of the formed garment pieces can be precisely adjusted.Process data can provide reference practical application value and theoretical guiding significance for the development of unconventional knitted sweaters.