宋代冕服“十二章纹”探析

Research on the "twelve ornaments" of coronation costume in Song dynasty

"十二章纹"是古代冕服的典型装饰纹样,象征着特殊的社会等级和文化意涵。由于朝代的更迭,不同朝代的冕服"十二章纹"虽具有同一性,却也不尽相同。文章运用"多重证据法"和"以图证史"等方法,基于对文献典籍和出土文物的研究分析,推断并绘制出宋代"十二章纹"的形象、数量及其在冕服上的分布情况。研究表明,明确宋代"十二章纹"的形象与排列有助于了解宋代的冕服文化,有利于把握古代冕服及其纹样的变化历程和历史脉络。

As a typical pattern in ancient coronation costumes,"twelve ornaments"symbolizes special social grading with deep cultural connotation.With the change of dynasties,despite twelve ornaments in different dynasties share some similarities,they are not completely identical.Through the study and analysis of ancient literature documents and unearthed relics,by means of"multiple evidence method"and"prove the history based on pictures",this paper drew the images and quantities of the"twelve ornaments",inferred their distribution on the coronation costume in Song dynasty.The study shows that clarifying the image and arrangement of"twelve ornaments"in Song dynasty is conductive to a better understanding of Song coronation costume culture and a better mastery of the transformation process and historical context of ancient coronation costume and relevant patterns.