基于《如懿传》中的古装剧服装特点设计探究

Based on the Characteristics of Costume in Ruyi Zhuan,This Paper Explores the Design Criteria of Costume Drama

当今社会中大部分现代人对于中国传统服饰文化的了解大多来源于古装剧中的服装造型,具有优秀服装造型的古装剧,如《如懿传》则可以通过荧幕形象的塑造达到传播传统服饰文化的目的。《如懿传》中的服装造型有其可圈可点之处,通过总结其特点内涵,可以对今后古装剧服装设计提出几点设计思路并进行参考:第一,历史性与创新性并行,在设计服装时要做到在尊重史实,且基本穿着礼仪不出错的情况下以优化为目的融入当下审美,古今融合进行设计;第二,服装服务于社会阶层等级的划分,具有一定社会性,彰显出人物的身份地位,在进行古装剧服装设计的过程中,需要按照朝代制度要求进行设计,具有严谨性;第三,注重服装的隐喻之意,服装可以从侧面表现人物性格,表达情绪变化以及暗示情节的发展,故在设计造型时需注重其颜色及纹样背后的含义。

Most of today's society to modern understanding of the Chinese traditional costume culture originate from costume piece of clothing modelling,have good clothing modelling costume dramas,such as the ones can get through it as taken white screen image to achieve the purpose of spreading traditional costume culture,"such as a biography of taken in the clothing modelling has its moments,by summing up its characteristic connotation,can costume piece garment design in the future to make the basis of some guiding principles:First,history and innovation are in parallel.When designing clothes,we should respect the historical facts and make no mistakes in basic wearing etiquette to integrate the current aesthetic for the purpose of optimization,and integrate the past and the present into the design.Second,clothing serves the division of social classes and grades,which has certain sociality and highlights the status of characters.In the process of costume design of costume dramas,it is necessary to design them with rigor in accordance with the requirements of the dynasty system.Third,we should pay attention to the metaphorical meaning of clothing.Clothing can show the character's personality from the side,express the change of mood and suggest the development of the plot.Therefore,we should pay attention to the meaning behind the color and pattern when designing the shape.