凸条针织面料创新设计与工艺

Innovative design and process of cord structure knitting fabric

为了进一步提升针织面料的设计效果,针对当前凸条类针织面料花色单一的现状,采用改变编织过程、丰富编织原料以及与其他组织复合等方式开发了几款具有分段闪色、波浪、斜向、褶皱、提花等特色花色效应的凸条织物,分别详细研究了这几款织物的花型特点、原料特点、编织机器、编织原理、电脑横机制版图以及应用等。研究结果表明:进行凸条花型织物的创新设计可以通过变化凸条组织长度、变化凸条组织翻针时横移针距或运用凸条组织与移圈组织、楔形编织、集圈组织、提花组织等其他组织复合并配合纱线颜色的变化实现,形成的凸条组织织物立体感强,花色效果丰富,装饰性强,有利于进行毛衫产品设计。

In order to further improve the design effect of knitted fabrics,in view of the current situation of simple design and color,several cord structure fabrics with characteristics of sectional flash color,wave,oblique direction,wrinkle,jacquard and so on knitted on computerized flat knitting machine were developed by changing the knitting process,materials and structures.The design features,yarn materials,knitting machines,knitting processes and applications were mainly introduced.The results show that the innovative design of cord structure fabrics could be knitted by changing length,needle distance during needle turning and cord structure fabrics combining with other patterns such as transferring structure,returning kniting,tuck structure,jacquard structure as well as by using colorful yarns.The fabric had strong three-dimensional,rich pattern and color effect and strong decoration,which provided ideas for sweater product design.