精梳毛织品脱缝程度的影响因素

Factors influencing fabric seam slippage of combed wool fabric

为了解决精梳毛织品存在的脱缝问题,明确织物脱缝程度与服装缝子纰裂程度之间的关系,通过生产实践中的实验数据,重点分析了织物总紧度、织物组织、织物纬经向紧度比、纱线捻向、纱线捻度、后整理工艺对织物脱缝程度的影响。研究表明:织物脱缝程度可表征织物中纱线的滑移性能,缝子纰裂程度可表征服装成品的接缝性能;缝子纰裂程度测试施加负荷大于织物脱缝程度测试施加负荷,缝子纰裂程度一般大于织物脱缝程度约1~2 mm;织物总紧度越大织物脱缝程度越小;经纬纱线采用同捻向配置、纱线捻度增加织物脱缝程度越小;后整理采用缩绒工艺可以减小织物脱缝程度。

In order to solve the problem of seam slippage of combed wool fabric and clarify the relationship between fabric seam slippage and garment slit slip,based on the experimental data in production practice,the effects of fabric tightness,fabric structure,warp/weft tightness ratio,yarn twist direction,yarn twist number,dyeing and finishing process on fabric seam slippage were analyzed and studied.The results show that the slip performance of yarns in the fabric can be characterized by the fabric seam slippage,and the seam slip performance of clothing products can be characterized by the garment slit slip.The applied load of garment slit slip test is higher than that of fabric seam slippage test,and the value of garment slit slip is higher than that of fabric seam slippage with 1-2 mm.The higher the fabric tightness,the lower the seam slippage.If the warp and weft yarn twist direction is the same,with increase of the yarn twist number,the lower the seam slippage.Fulling can reduce the slippage of fabric joints.