“无差别”的社会空间:基于海底捞的消费文化研究

“Undifferentiated”Social Space:A Study of Consumption Culture Based on the Case Study of Haidilao Hot Pot

以海底捞为代表的川式火锅饮食文化走出四川进而风靡全国,是研究互联网时代饮食消费文化的经典案例。通过田野调查,以人类学视角对海底捞流行背后的消费文化进行解释,认为海底捞通过微笑服务打造了一个“无差别”的就餐环境与社会空间,改变了中国传统“高语境”社会的就餐习惯与就餐礼仪,通过与“社交货币”等网络文化相结合,打造了独特的以微笑服务为代表的新型消费文化。和凭借金钱与价格制造社会文化区隔不同,以海底捞为代表的中国微笑服务式消费文化缓和了西方消费主义占主导地位所带来的阶层冲突与矛盾,缩小了社会群体之间的权力距离。海底捞重塑了几千年来深深烙印在中国人心中的权力和等级观念,建构了无差别的社会空间,缝合了人与人之间的权力距离。

Having originated in Sichuan and become popular throughout the country,the Sichuan-style hot pot food culture represented by Haidilao is a classic case study of food consumption culture in the Internet era.Through field survey,this study interpreting the consumption culture behind Haidilao from an anthropological perspective,insists that Haidilao has created an“undifferentiated”dining environment and social space through smiling services,which has changed the dining habits and dining etiquette in the traditional Chinese“high-context”society,and has created a unique new consumption culture represented by smiling service in combination with social currency and other network cultures.Different from making social and cultural distinctions based on money and price,Haidilao has eased class conflicts and contradictions brought about by the dominance of Western consumerism,and reduced the power distance between social groups.Haidilao has reshaped the concept of power and hierarchy deeply imprinted in the hearts of Chinese people for thousands of years,constructing an undifferentiated social space and shortening the power distance between people.