基于感官评估的上肢运动与衬衣衣袖结构关系

Relationship Between Upper Arm Movement and Blouse Sleeve Construction Based on Sensory Testing

通过感官评估方法分析衬衣动态形变和着装感与衣袖结构尺寸之间的关系。以腰线起翘量、整体着装感和局部着装感作为评价指标,由15名在校女大学生分别试穿8件衣袖结构及尺寸不同的直筒型衬衣。进行衣身形变测量和主观评价。因子分析结果表明,袖结构尺寸是影响动态衬衣外观和整体着装感的主要因素。衣袖局部着装感评价结果显示,上肢前举时能够有效感知袖宽松度;服装对背部的压力随上肢前举幅度增加而增加,因此背部是追加衣身松量的主要部位;袖山高、袖肥的匹配关系对局部着装感影响较大,而衣身袖窿位置和尺寸调整,对衬衫局部着装感提升影响不大。衬衣廓形不变时,袖山高是调整衬衫舒适度和美观度的关键因素。

The purpose of this study was to analyze the relationship between the dynamic wearing perception and sleeve size of blouses by means of sensory evaluation.15 female college students were selected to evaluate the feeling of restraint of 8 straight blouses with different structural size,and the deformation appeared in shirts were measured respectively with the evaluating indicators of waistline up warping,overall and local feeling of restraint.According to the results of factor analysis,sleeve size was the main factors that affecting the shirt's appearance and whole wearing perceptions.The results of sensory evaluation for local parts of blouses showed that the sleeve looseness could be evaluated when the upper limb lifted forward.The sense of pressure in back increased with the increasing of upper limb amplitude,which was the main part needed to add active looseness.The matching of sleeve mountain height and sleeve circumference greatly influenced the sense of pressure in local parts,while the armhole position and size had little influence on improving the local wearing perceptions of blouses.Thus,the sleeve mountain height was the key factor for adjusting the comfort and appearance of blouses when the silhouette was unchanged.