近代阴丹布衣的“符号化”过程

Process of Symbolization of"Indanthrene Cloth"in Morden Times

阴丹士林布是近代一种极具代表的纺织国产面料,其工艺简单、风格独特。针对阴丹士林布对近代社会文化的指向性问题,在符号学框架下,以近代期刊、小说、海报等史料为依据,分析阴丹士林系列产品在生产、宣销、流行等阶段的表现特点,探究其由单一事物到综合符号的演变过程。经证实,阴丹布衣作为一种非语言服饰类符号,代表着近代中国“节用”观念、“素雅”形象及“平民”阶层,成为民众眼中的“国服备选”、市场眼中的“畅销商品”和政府眼中的“国货代表”。

The"Indanthrene cloth"is a representative textile fabric made in morden China,with simple technology and unique style.In view of its directivity to modern social culture,under the framework of semiotics and based on modern periodicals,novels,posters and other historical materials,this paper analyzes the performance characteristics of Indanthrene series products in the stages of production,marketing and popularity,and explores the evolution process from single thing to comprehensive symbol.It has been proved that"Indanthrene clothes",as a kind of non-verbal dress symbol,represents the concept of"thrift","simple but elegant"image and"civilian"class in modern China.It has become the"national clothing alternative"in the eyes of the public,the"best-selling goods"in the eyes of the market and the"domestic products representative"in the eyes of the government.