伊丽莎白一世肖像画中服饰刺绣特征的解读

Interpretation of the Embroidery Features of the Clothing in Elizabeth I's Portrait

都铎王朝是英国君主专制的黄金时期,经济、文化的繁荣促进了刺绣工艺的快速发展。基于英国女王伊丽莎白一世的肖像画,采用文献学和图像学的研究方法,分析和阐述了16世纪英国服饰刺绣工艺、材料及其艺术特征,并在此基础上以伊丽莎白一世3个时期(公主时期、统治盛期、统治晚期)的不同肖像画为依据,探讨了不同时期都铎王朝服饰刺绣的应用方式和纹样意象,以及服饰刺绣对伊丽莎白一世“童贞女王”君王形象的塑造作用。

The Tudor Dynasty was the golden age of absolute monarchy in England.The prosperity of economy and culture promoted the rapid development of embroidery technology.Based on the portrait of Queen Elizabeth I of England,this paper analyzes and expounds the 16th century British clothing embroidery craft,material and artistic features by means of philo-logy and iconography.And the study takes the portraits of Elizabeth I in three different periods(the princess period,the heyday,the late period),discusses the application mode and pattern meaning of Tudor Dynasty costume embroidery in different periods,and to shape the image of the"virgin queen"of Elizabeth I.