羊毛/涤纶混纺弹力薄花呢生产工艺探讨

Discussion on production technology of wool/polyester blended elastic tweed

为了提高生产效率,降低生产风险,做出质量更优异的薄花呢面料,从产品设计、织造、后整理几方面对羊毛/涤纶混纺弹力薄花呢的设计及工艺进行探讨,通过反复试验寻找最佳工艺路线和工艺参数。测试结果表明:织造的最佳上机工艺参数为开口时间303°,闭口时间318°,综框高度55 mm,综框动程134 mm,车速330 r/min,产品的生产效率较高且质量较为稳定。预定形温度为180~190℃,最佳定形温度为190℃,时间应达到35 s,车速为22 m/min时,能达到很好的定形效果。采用优选的工艺参数使羊毛/涤纶混纺弹力薄花呢的质量得到明显改善,减少了生产事故,提高了生产效率,可为轻薄弹力面料的开发提供一定的参考。

In order to improve production efficiency,reduce production risk and make better quality thin tweed fabric,the design and technology of wool and polyester blended elastic thin tweed were discussed from the aspects of product design,weaving and finishing.The optimum process route and parameters were obtained through repeated tests.The test results show that the optimum process parameters of weaving are 303°for timing of shedding motion,318°for timing of shed closing,55 mm for harness height,134 mm for the distance of the harness from the fell and 330 r/min for cam shaft speed.Under this condition,the production efficiency of the product is higher,and the quality is more stable.Moreover,to achieve a good setting effect,the optimum temperature of presetting is 180-190℃,the best setting temperature is 190℃,then the setting time should reach 35 s and the loom speed is 22 m/min.The quality of wool/polyester blended elastic thin tweed is improved obviously by using the optimized process parameters,which reduce the processing accidents and improve the production efficiency.It can also provide certain reference for the development of light and thin elastic fabric.