19世纪末20世纪初欧洲女装纸样中的肩部结构研究

Research on shoulder structure in European women′s pattern at the end of 19th century and the beginning of 20th century

19世纪末20世纪初欧洲女装呈现出“新艺术”典型特征。为探索此时期欧洲女体肩部曲面与服装结构之间的关系,以及纸样中肩凸浮余量的处理方法,以此时期女装肩部纸样结构做为研究对象,采用历史文献调查、样本数据分析、样衣实验等研究方法,讨论了纸样中肱骨凸起和锁骨内凹、肩胛骨凸起、肩线处的结构特点以及浮余量消除方法,实现“人体—纸样—服装”之间的转换,从而达到服装合体的造型效果。并通过肩部样衣的复原与制作,对这一特殊历史时期欧洲女装肩部结构形成客观的认识。

At the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century,European women′s clothing presents the typical characteristics of Art Nouveau.In order to explore the relationship between the shoulder surface of European women′s body and clothing structure in this period,and to investigate the method to deal with the surplus of shoulder bulge in the pattern,the shoulder pattern blocks were taken as the research object in this paper.By using the methods of historical literature survey,sample data analysis,sample clothing experiment and others,the structural features of humeral protrusion,clavicular concavity,scapular protrusion and shoulder line were discussed,the conversion between“human body-pattern blocks-clothing”was realized to achieve the effect of fit shaping.Finally,a clear and objective understanding of shoulder structure of European women′s clothing in this special historical period is formed through the restoration and production of sample clothes.