西南苗侗民族织锦的对比研究

Comparative study on the brocade of the Miao and Dong nationalities in southwest China

为推动少数民族织锦文化资源的保护与传承,针对现有的理论成果多以单一民族织锦研究为主,多元民族织锦对比研究相对薄弱的问题,通过文献研究法、田野调查法及分析比较法,探讨西南苗侗民族织锦特征的异同点。从梳理苗侗民族织锦文化的起源及流变历程着手,对苗侗民族织锦的外观风格、织造工序和附着的社会功能进行系统的对比剖析。研究结果表明:西南苗侗民族织锦在纹样规律、织造工艺和社会属性等方面有着相似和共同之处,在色彩调性、图案造型和绣法运用等方面则具有显著的差异性。说明不同少数民族的织锦文化历经时间更迭,其不同文化元素之间既相互作用又独立发展。

In order to promote the protection and inheritance of ethnic minority brocade cultural resources,the similarities and differences of brocade characteristics of Miao and Dong ethnic groups in southwest China were discussed by means of literature research,field investigation and comparative analysis.Starting with the cultural origin and evolution of the brocade of the Miao and Dong ethnic group,the appearance style,weaving process and social function of the brocade of the Miao and Dong ethnic group were compared and analyzed systematically.The results show that the brocade of Miao and Dong nationality in southwest China is similar and common in pattern,weaving technology and social attribute,but different in color tone,pattern and embroidery method.It shows that the tapestry culture of different ethnic minorities has undergone time change,and the different cultural elements interact with each other and develop independently.