无省道服装多种实践方法的综述分析

Overview and Analysis of Various Practice Methods on Dart Free Clothing

基于面料发展趋于多元化、个性化的大背景下,在具体的设计实践中,花纹的完整性和其他条(格)的不可破坏性等因素,要求在服装设计时进行无省、无分割线的处理。通过文献研究与梳理了无省道服装的发端及发展,整理出斜裁、十字型结构、省道转移与消化、面料归拔与整烫、模压一片式这5种途径,实践验证无省道服装多种实践方法的可行性,对其进行分类与探索,得出具体的结构制图与工艺处理,对无省道服装制作进行详细的整理,为无省道制作提供了参考。

Under the general background of diversification and individuation of fabric development,due to the integrity of patterns and the indestructibility of other stripes(lattices),in the specific practice of design,it was required to adopt the treatment of no dart and no split line when designing the clothing.Through literature,the origin and development of dart free clothing were studied and combed.Five methods were sorted out,including tapered cut,cross structure,dart transfer and elimination,fabric drawing and iron-ing and one piece molding.Practice proved that a variety of practice methods of dart free clothing were feasible.Through the classifi-cation and exploration,the specific structure drafting and process treatment were obtained.The detailed arrangement for the produc-tion of dart free clothing was carried out,which could provide a reference for the later dart free production.