视觉建构视域下明代凤冠的结构辨析

On the structure of phoenix coronet in Ming dynasty from the perspective of visual construction

凤冠为古代贵族妇女所戴的礼冠,起源于汉代,发展于唐宋时期,成熟于明代。明永乐时期,后妃凤冠分为礼服冠和燕居冠,结构十分复杂。虽《明宫冠服仪仗图》绘制了凤冠的廓形,但其每个部件的名称和形制却无从知晓。文章从视觉建构角度出发,运用史学、服装学、艺术学和设计学相关知识和技术手段来解读凤冠的详细结构:1)《明宫冠服仪仗图》绘制的凤冠,在部件上与文字记载存在一定的差异;2)每个凤冠有十余种部件,而所有零部件多则上千个;3)通过互相印证同类凤冠的图像并比对出土实物,凤冠每个部件的名称和形制得以考证。由此,论证结果认为凤冠结构复杂,文字记载和图像存在一定的差异,辨析凤冠每个部件的名称和形制,是准确建构凤冠视觉形象的根本。

Phoenix coronet is a ritual crownworn by ancient noble women,which was originated in the Han dynasty,developed in Tang and Song dynasties,and matured in Ming dynasty.During Yongle period of the Ming dynasty,the phoenix coronet of empresses were divided into two types,namely,ritual crown and Yanju crown,which are extremely complex in the structure.Although the outline of the phoenix coronet was drawn in Costume and Honor Grand Sketch of Ming Dynasty,the name and structure of each component are unknown.In view of this,this article analyzes the detailed structures of phoenix coronet by virtue of technological knowledge and skills in the fields of history,clothing,art and design from the perspective of visual construction:1)Firstly,the phoenix coronet drawn in Costume and Honor Grand Sketch of Ming Dynasty differs with written records in terms of its components;2)Each phoenix coronet is composed of more than ten kinds of components,and the subcomponents are as many as thousands;3)Through corroborating the images of the same kind of phoenix coronets and comparing them with the unearthed remains,the name and shape of each component were studied and verified.It is proved that the phoenix coronet has a complicated structure,with differences between images and written records.Therefore,the differentiation of the name and shape of each component on phoenix coronet is essential for creating an accurate visual image of phoenix coronet.