丝绸之路背景下十二世纪安达卢西亚丝织品图案设计范式的文化内涵与传播

Cultural connotation and spread of the twelfth-century Al-Andalus silk fabricpattern design paradigm in the context of the Silk Road

文章从一件出现于中世纪伊比利亚地区著名的“巴格达丝绸”来探讨当时该地区对仿制东方式丝绸的自觉性。以同时期的中国丝绸作为切入点,分析东方风格传统纹样的流变,探讨在十二世纪时横跨欧亚大陆两端的安达卢西亚与中国之间的丝绸贸易往来与图案范式。以巴格达与中国作为安达卢西亚在十二世纪获取东方式丝绸的两个重要贸易点,对当时安达卢西亚的仿东方式丝绸的生产模式做出两种不同的分类,从安达卢西亚著名的“巴格达丝绸”出发,推断“巴格达丝绸”等安达卢西亚的仿东方式丝绸与一种生产自巴格达的名为“Nasich”的纺织品之间有千丝万缕的联系,并根据这两种不同的丝绸生产模式探析安达卢西亚的纺织工厂自觉仿制东方式丝绸的原因。

In this paper,a famous"Baghdad silk"that appeared in the Iberian region of the Middle Ages was selected as the research object to investigate the conscious imitation of Oriental silk in this region.Starting from the Chinese silk of the same period,this paper analyzed the evolution of the traditional patterns of the Oriental-style silk fabrics,and discussed the silk trade exchange and pattern paradigm between China and Al-Andalus,an area that traversed the two ends of Eurasia in the twelfth century.With Baghdad and China as two important trading points for Al-Andalus to acquire Oriental-style silk fabrics in the 12 th century,the production model of Al-Andalus imitation of Oriental-style silk was divided into two different classifications.Starting from"Baghdad Silk"in the Iberian region,it was inferred that Al-Andalus imitation of Oriental-style silk fabrics such as"Baghdad Silk"was inextricably connected with a textile called"Nasich"produced in Baghdad.Based on these two different silk production models,this paper analyzed the reasons for Al-Andalus textile factories’conscious imitation of Oriental silk.