珊瑚礁地形上破碎波高试验研究

Experimental study of breaker height on reef topography

破碎波高是珊瑚礁地形上波浪演化的重要参数之一,对工程安全和海岸变形具有重要影响。通过二维波浪水槽,对珊瑚礁地形上破碎波高进行试验研究,分析破碎波高随波陡、礁坪水深以及礁前斜坡坡度的变化。研究表明,相对破碎波高随相对礁坪水深的增大而增大,随入射波陡的增大而减小,但礁前斜坡坡度对相对破碎波高的影响并不明显。通过引入相对礁坪水深,将经典的破碎波高计算公式拓展至珊瑚礁地形上破碎波高的计算。该公式计算值与前人的试验值进行对比验证,吻合较好。研究成果可为工程实践和数值模拟提供参考与借鉴。

Breaker height is one of the important parameters of wave evolution on reef topography and has important influence on engineering safety and coastal deformation.Through a two-dimensional wave flume,the breaker height on reef was studied experimentally to analyze the change of breaker height with wave steepness,water depth over reef flat and forereef slope.The study shows that the relative breaker height increases with the increase of the relative depth of the reef flat and decreases with the increase of the wave steepness,but the influence of the forereef slope on the relative breaker height is not obvious.By introducing the relative water depth on the reef flat,the classical empirical formula of the breaker height is extended to the calculation of the breaking wave height on the reef topography.The calculated values of this formula are in good agreement with the experimental values of previous researchers.The research results can provide reference for engineering practice and numerical simulation.