菜系中“风味”的核心地位与淮扬菜系的风味——淮扬菜系基础理论研究之二

The Core Status of "Flavor" in the Cuisine and the Flavor of Huaiyang Cuisine--A Study of the Theoretical Basis of Huaiyang Cuisine(Ⅱ)

气候地理的差别划出了区域,区域间最明显的差别就是物产,物产决定了饮食习惯和烹调方式,在相应的区域内出现菜系的对应绝不是巧合。菜系的形成过程中,最重要的基础因素是气候、地域、物产以及相关的自然因素;最重要的催化因素是时代、政治、经济、风尚以及相关的社会因素。菜系最核心的识别标志应该是各种因素的结晶“风味”,以及对各方都有凝结显现作用的“菜系文化”。应该避免许多对“菜系”泛化和对“帮口菜”拔高之类的问题,不把某些菜品的移植、改造、引入作为自称菜系的依据,从而忽视对真正的菜系文化的关注。

The differences in climate geography have divided regions;the most obvious difference between regions is the produce.The produce determines dietary habits and cooking methods,and it's not a coincidence that there emerges a certain cuisine in the corresponding area.In the course of forming a cuisine,the most important fundamental factors are climate,terrain,produce,and relevant natural factors;the most important catalytic factors are era,politics,economy,fashion,and relevant social factors.The core identification mark of a cuisine should be the embodiment of the combination of various factors,“flavor”,and“cuisine culture”condensed with all aspects.We should avoid problems like the generalization of cuisines and the overstatement of dishes of gangs.The transplant,transformation,and introduction of certain dishes should not be the basis of self-claiming cuisine,otherwise the true cuisine culture will be ignored.