高弹绒感锦纶户外骑行服面料的开发

Development of Weft Knitted Nylon Fabric with High Elasticity and Pile-feel

选用3.33 tex/34 f的Z捻半消光锦纶66与4.44 tex低温氨纶纱线,在德乐棉毛圆纬机上开发高弹绒感锦纶棉毛结构针织面料。文中分别从原料选取、编织工艺、染整工艺、面料的拉伸弹性、耐磨性能、防紫外线性能、透气性、吸湿排汗、抗起球性能等方面,详细介绍该面料的开发背景及设计思路结果表明,开发的高弹绒感锦纶纬编面料,反面绒感较好、高弹,面料在22.25N下纵向拉伸39%,横向拉伸38%;吸湿性强,耐磨性好,防紫外线UPF值>50,透气率为0.440 m^(3)/min,手感柔软,穿着舒适,可以满足户外骑行服的要求。

Using 3.33 tex/34 f Z-twist polyamide 66 and 4.44 tex low-temperature spandex yarns, the knitted fabrics with high elasticity and pile-feel were developed on Dele interlock circular weft knitting machine. In this paper, the development background and design ideas of the fabric are introduced in detail from the aspects of raw material selection, knitting process, dyeing and finishing process, tensile elasticity, wear resistance, UV resistance,air permeability, moisture absorption and sweat transfer, anti-pilling and so on. The results show that the nylon weft knitted fabric with high elasticity and pile-feel has good reverse-side pile-feel and high elasticity. The longitudinal and lateral stretching of the fabric is 39% and 38% at 22.25 N. The fabric has strong moisture absorption, good wear resistance, UV protection, soft feel and comfortable to wear, and UPF value is larger than50, air permeability is 0.440 m3/min, which can meet the requirements of outdoor cycling clothes.