纱罗织物在小样织机上的试织

Trial Weaving of Leno Fabric on Sample Loom

探讨在小样织机上织造纱罗织物的方法。简要回顾了纱罗织物的历史。介绍了线制绞综的制作方法和在小样织机上的使用方法。结合纱罗织物线描图和上机图,通过控制后综、基综、地综的数量及穿法,完成了从简单到复杂的多种纱罗织物织造。实践表明:纱线的粗细、刚性会对绞转的稳定度、绞转效果及孔隙大小产生影响;借助空筘穿法可以有效控制纱罗的孔隙度;织造复杂纱罗时,绞经和地经分轴整经有利于经纱张力均匀,绞转效果明显。认为:通过相关改造,可以在小样织机上开发纱罗织物。

Method of weaving leno fabric on sample loom was discussed.History of leno fabric was briefly reviewed.Method of making stranded leno heddle and method of using it on sample loom were introduced.Combining line drawing and threading chart of leno fabric,through controlling the number of rear heddle,base heddle and ground heddle and heddle draft method,a variety of leno fabric weaving from simple to complex were completed.The practice showed that the thickness and rigidity of the yarn affected stability of coils,the effect of coils and size of pores.Porosity of leno fabric could be effectively controlled with the help of hollow reeding method.When weaving complex leno fabric,section beam was adopted for split thread and ground warp,which was beneficial to even warp tension,effect coils was obvious.It is considered that leno fabric can be developed on sample loom through related modification.