筒形设计理念在全成形礼服中的应用

Application of Tube Design Concept in Fully-fashioned Dress

根据全成形礼服的一体成形编织方式,提出了筒形设计理念,并分为单筒形设计理念和多筒形设计理念。研究筒形设计方法,并且将筒形设计方法应用于全成形礼服设计,详细探讨了全成形礼服编织工艺。研究结果表明:单筒形设计理念可通过改变设计角度与袖窿的位置产生意想不到的服装效果;多筒形设计理念可通过设计圆筒的形状与组合方式丰富款式变化。废纱工艺为之后的起底编织做好准备,拼接工艺利用挂目连接单片织物与筒形织物,开洞工艺在圆筒上先收针再加针形成袖窿。

According to the integral knitting method of the fully-fashioned dress, a tube design concept is proposed,which is divided into a single-tube design concept and a multi-tubular design concept. The tubular design method was studied, which was applied to the full-form dress design, and the fully-fashioned dress knitting process was discussed in detail. The results show that the single-tube design concept can produce unexpected garment effects by changing the design angle and the position of the armholes and the multi-tubular design concept can enrich the style change by designing the shape and combination of different tubes. The waste yarn process prepares for the subsequent bottom knitting, and the splicing process connects the single piece of fabric with the tubular fabric by using the eye-catching process, and the opening process firstly makes narrowing and then widening on the tube in order to knit the sleeve.