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豫西捶草印花工艺调查及纹样分析 被引量:7

Research on the technique and pattern analysis of dyeing and printingwith beaten grass of western Henan
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摘要 为了界定捶草印花的工艺特征,使其得到更好的传承和发展,文章采用田野调查法,从传统草木染的角度对捶草印花进行实地考察,梳理出捶草印花的传统工艺流程,以及其与刻板技艺、剪纸技艺、扎染技艺的结合表现形式。通过对捶草印花纹样进行分析,发现其可分为植物摆放型与刻板印花型两大类,其中刻板印花类纹样题材较为丰富,花卉题材、剪纸题材比较具有代表性。研究提出,捶草印花技艺应在继承和发展中融入新生代设计力量,创新工艺表现形式,丰富图案纹样和造型,以便适应时代发展。 In order to define the process features of dying and printing with beaten grass,so that it can be better inherited and developed,the field investigation method is adopted on dying and printing with beaten grass from the perspective of traditional natural dyeing.As a result,the traditional process of dying and printing with beaten grass and its combination with engraving technique,paper-cutting technique and tie-dyeing technique are sorted out in this paper.This paper analyzes the printing patterns of dying and printing with beaten grass,which are divided into two categories,namely plant placement andstencil printing,with the latter being rich in motifs,and the floral motifs and paper-cutting motifs being more representative thereof.The research suggests that the new generation of design strength should be incorporated into the technology of dying and printing with beaten grass so as to adapt to the development of the times by innovating the forms of the craftsmanship and enriching the patterns and shapes.
作者 孔伊凡 郑喆 石伟红 任鑫娜 KONG Yifan;ZHENG Zhe;SHI Weihong;REN Xinna(College of Fashion,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;College of International Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Fashion and Silk Culture Research Center,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Fashion Engineering Technology Research Center,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zixintang Studio,Sanmenxia 472000,China)
出处 《丝绸》 CAS CSCD 北大核心 2021年第11期121-126,共6页 Journal of Silk
基金 浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心基地成果项目(20210801) 浙江省服装工程技术研究中心成果项目(20210730) 浙江理工大学国家级大学生创新创业训练计划项目(20211031) 浙江理工大学本科生科技创新计划项目(20211031)。
关键词 草木染 捶草印花 工艺 剪纸 扎染 纹样分析 natural dyeing dying and printing with beaten grass process paper-cutting tie-dyeing pattern analysis
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