高档休闲牛仔布衬衫面料的研发与生产

Development and production of high-grade casual denim shirt fabric

为了开发一种高档休闲牛仔布衬衫面料,采用0.8 D×38 mm Tencel LF型纤维,以紧密纺方式纺成14.8 tex天丝纱作为经纬纱原料。文章对松式整经、经轴染色、浆纱及剑杆织造等主要工序的生产工艺与技术措施作了较为详细的论述,保证产品品质达到预期目标,坯布织造效率达95.0%,下机一等品率达90.0%,入库一等品率达99.0%。通过仿绸整理后,经检测,成品经纬向强力指标均达到优等品标准,且经纬向水洗缩水率均在3.0%以内,可与同类棉制品相媲美。

In order to develop a kind of high-grade casual denim shirt fabric,14.8 tex Tencel yarn is spun by 0.8 D×38 mm Tencel LF fiber as warp and weft yarn raw materials in compact spinning model.In this paper,the production process and technical measures of the main processes such as loose warping,warp dyeing,sizing and rapier weaving are discussed in detail,so as to ensure the product quality to reach the expected goal.The weaving efficiency of grey fabrics is over 95.0%,the first-class product rate is 90.0%,and the first-class product rate is 99.0%.After the silk-like finishing and testing,the warp and weft strength indexes of the finished products have reached the standard of excellent products,and the warp and weft water washing shrinkage is less than 3.0%,which is comparable to similar cotton products.